the art of fermented tea
making traditional awa bancha
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awa bancha tea
I remember the first time some offered me awa bancha (or bancha for short) tea when I first moved to Kamikatsu. I had never heard of “bancha” tea before but from the outside, it looked like green tea. When I took my first sip I was taken aback by the slightly tangy, almost sour, slightly bitter flavour.
The name “Awa Bancha” is a combination of “Awa”, which was an area in what is now Tokushima prefecture. It is now used as another word for Tokushima. “Bancha” refers to late, which is named because the tea leaves are harvested later than regular green tea. Green tea made in many prefectures is usually picked from late April to May. However, bancha tea in Kamikatsu is picked from July to August.
I learned later that bancha is a commonplace household tea in Kamikatsu (and around some other parts of Tokushima) - drunk pipping hot during winter months and served cold over ice in the summer. Bancha is a burst of energy in the cold and frigid mornings and a soothing afternoon cooldown on warm days.
Bancha is not everyone’s cup of tea. I’ve met people who really enjoy it and really don’t. It seems to be an acquired taste. One of my first memories in Kamikatsu was attending a bancha tea tasting event last year in early autumn.
A row of glass boxes was lined up next to each other with a photo of the farmer and their name. Inside was the bancha they had made over the summer. The thing about bancha is that it’s incredibly varied. It’s made through natural fermentation and as a result, it’s hard to control all the factors to produce a consistent taste. Things like fermentation duration, equipment, altitude, and many other factors can have an impact on the final flavour. I was surprised by the variety among the bancha’s and how apparent the differences were with each sip.
how it’s made
1) gather
Once a year, in the middle of summer, mature green tea leaves are stripped from the branches of bushes.
If you’re familiar with Japanese summer’s, you’ll know that it’s not just hot it’s also ridiculously humid. But in spite of the heat and humidity, a sizeable proportion of Kamikatsu’s residences dawns their sun hats, gloves, long boots and ties a woven basket on their hips and heads to the mountains to pick tea leaves.
To pick the leaves, you pinch your thumb and pointer finger at the base of the branch and pull towards the end until you’re left with all the leaves in the palm of your hand a bear branch.
Picking tea leaves is tiring and laborious. Any farm work is hard work. You put your whole body behind very repetitive work but I still enjoy it because it’s a chance to gather with all kinds of people from the village. Since a lot of hands are needed to gather the leaves, people who make bancha call for help from near and far — it makes for some interesting conversations!
2) boil
The leaves are boiled. This step varies between farmers and families. Back in the day, tea was made to be consumed by each family and the head of the house would determine the boiling times. Ranging between 2-5 (or more) minutes — roughly until the leaves change from bright green to a dullish yellow. The discolouration stops the oxidation.
In the past, bancha wasn’t made for selling or commercial purposes. Like rice and other vegetables, it was grown to feed and provide for the family. Now the number of people that make bancha tea is decreasing because of the ageing population.
3) rolled, barreled, fermented
The tea leaves are rolled, either by a machine or by hand and then places in a barrel and for the process of fermentation to start. The leaves are tightly packed into the barrel and rocks are placed over it. An anaerobic fermentation happens because of lactic acid bacteria, similar to the same way that milk is fermented into yoghurt.
4) dry
The last step is to dry the Awa bancha under the sun for a day. Complete. The whole process can take over a month including the several weeks needed for fermentation. It’s a time consuming and labour intensive tea. I haven't seen the drying process, but I’m told it’s the most difficult step. Once the leaves are completed dried then ta-daaaaa awa bancha tea is complete.
If you have the chance, please try awa bancha tea! Even better yet, come join me in Kamikatsu to pick tea leaves and try the tea.
preserving tradition
Awa Bancha is truly special. The tea is designated as an Intangible Cultural Asset by the national government. The tea is also recognized by the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity and listed under the Ark of Taste project that strives to document local and traditional foods from around the world.
It would be so great to see bancha gain more interest both domestically and globally. I want to push matcha aside so people can know that there’s more variety to Japanese tea culture. As with many concerns I have about the countryside, I am worried that traditions, and the output of that knowledge, will fade if more young people aren’t interested; but these past couple of weeks I’ve helped two young farmers and their interest to spread bancha beyond the household leaves me feeling incredibly hopeful.
An exciting personal update.
Tending Gardens is officially tending to a garden. This summer I’ve been able to patch up an unused part of my front yard and make a REAL GARDEN! My herbs have been thriving and I just ate my first tomato. Cucumbers, chillies, lettuce, and green peppers are also in the mix.
Hope you’re week is filled with moments of rest and finding joy in unexpected moments and places.
Take care,
Kana
I’d love for you to think of me as your penpal—sharing a note from a tiny village in Japan. With Tending Gardens, I want to bring you a small joy in the form of a newsletter. If you like it and want more like it in your inbox, consider subscribing.