Thank you for sharing your thoughts about the tradeoffs., Kana. I live in Tokyo’s city center — within walking distance of Shinjuku Station (the world’s busiest train station) — and have been looking for a place in the countryside of Tokyo’s mountainous hinterlands for many years.
But the tradeoffs may be too large for me. On my site and Substack Old Photos of Japan I write about daily life in Old Japan, which requires countless hours of research at libraries and archives. I must stay within a certain distance from central Tokyo to accommodate this. Enlarging my collection of vintage images of Japan also requires a city environment.
Additionally, I wrestle with health issues that require frequent hospital visits and doctors with specialist knowledge. Last August I was taken to hospital by ambulance twice within a single week. The second time I could barely breathe. Waiting for the ambulance for longer than I did and then traveling for an hour would have been sheer torture.
Now I live within walking distance of several major hospitals. I doubt living far away from them is realistic.
And I live by myself, which increases the risk of living in the countryside. The additional burden of taking care of an ’estate’, no matter how small, and the community requirements of the Japanese countryside, would likely be too much for a single person with my health limitations and the many hours I need for researching my articles and books.
The more I consider my particular situation and the extreme tradeoffs this requires, the more I realize that perhaps moving to the countryside — no matter how much I want to — is perhaps not a choice available to me.
Which makes reading about your experiences in the countryside a true joy, Kana. Such is the wonder of reading — one gets to be exposed a little to experiences that are otherwise unattainable.
Thank you so much for your thoughtful comment! I just read your beautifully detailed and archived post about Onsen (I think it might have been an older post, but the algorithm brought it up!), and it was such a joy to read.
I completely agree that the nature of our work and responsibilities plays a huge role in determining where we need to be and the access we require. While there is a heli-service for medical emergencies here, and a clinic (not a hospital) just 15–20 minutes away, that distance can feel much too far in truly serious situations.
Exchanging these perspectives and trade-offs through each other’s writing feels so meaningful. I also make city trips to Kansai often (since it’s much closer to Shikoku)—so I can imagine the reverse (trips to the countryside) is the same for you!
Thank you for your kind words about my article on onsen, Kana.
It is indeed an older article. But my articles are generally timeless 'evergreens', so I am deeply grateful for the Substack algorithm bringing up older posts.
Yes, there is no single recipe for living a life. Each of us has to figure it out individually. So, being able to read about how other people live their lives is very interesting and helpful. No matter of one's age.
I’ve had similar thoughts to this bubbling up to the surface for me, too. Lately, I’ve been dreaming about returning to Nagasaki to fulfill a decade-long dream of living in the slopes (a taste of which I had as a university student when I lived in an apartment behind Suwa Shrine. No car access and no shower. We had to use plastic buckets for our baths).
I loved the little inconveniences of living in Nagasaki, despite it being a city. Carrying my groceries up the hill every day in the peak summer months was a rite of passage. I think your concerns about how you’ll feel when you get older are valid, but I can’t help but think of the women in their eighties with their white hair who would pass me by on the hill, moving at lightning speed because they’d been living in the slopes as for decades while I was catching my breath. Having a sound mind and staying healthy truly is a blessing.
On the flip side, you’ve just made me realize just how convenient my life is here in Miyazaki. I live in a high-rise apartment near the city center and everything truly is just one click away. All my favorite restaurants are less than 10 minutes walk away and it’s flat where I live. Thank you for giving me some things to think about, Kana. It’s good to check in and see if I’m over romanticizing things sometimes!
I like the line you wrote: "I loved the little inconveniences of living in Nagasaki, despite it being a city." The word "little inconveniences" feels like a perfect description for what you experienced in Nagasaki.
It's true what you say about women in their 80s, the elderly here are so fit and strong. That comes from being born and raised here and cultivating that kind of strength.
It's good that you have both experiences to give you a different perspective!
"How do I think about these tradeoffs with ageing?"
I wouldn't worry about it too much Kana.
I left NYC for Alaska in '64. Admittedly I'm only 30 minutes away from a hospital (As you know, we drive faster here than you folks on Shikoku Island, grin.) rather than a hour. None the less at 86 I'm still quite comfortable on my own property far from the crowds.
Thank you, Jim! NYC to Alaska... I can't think of two more different places in the US!
And I think you make a point that health is much more than access to a hospital.
I will say, Shikoku is known for having some fast (*cough* wild) drivers. Since there is not a well-developed train network like the rest of Japan and it's a very mountainous terrain, most people rely on cars. I'm not sure we're as fast as you/Alaskan drivers, but we're faster than the rest of Japan haha.
Delighted to come across your article/profile. I just moved to the lower Alps in South France. It’s the best thing I’ve ever done for myself. As a musician, I had always lived in the biggest cities in the US and Europe, but I’m just a country boy at heart, and I finally had to accept that city life was making me deeply unhappy.
Anyway, so much of what you’re writing resonates. Keep it up, I will be checking in :)
Thank you so much for sharing that! It's wonderful that we can share similar feelings even though we're in completely different parts of the world. Hope you settle in well into your new home :)
Excellent article Kana. At 61, I’ve become more and more open to living in a rural area. The thought of being closer to nature along with space for a sizable garden is very appealing.
Thank you so much! Any age is a great age. I recently read your post about "suburban America," which is quite a different phenomenon altogether. Still, I found it thought-provoking to consider the question, "What does livability truly mean?" I think that resonates universally, no matter where you call home.
I live in a rural coastal town in Maine. After living in Tokyo and Austin, TX and then making the change to small town life, I can't imagine going back to the city. One thing I do wonder is if I can ever retire here in the US where cost of living is so high. Homesteading is amazing but it's not cheap either, at least at the start (putting in a generator, buying a trailer, etc) and property taxes. As much as I love Maine, I do think about retiring in rural Japan sometimes for cheap abandoned land, mild climate, and relatively low cost of living. Is that why you moved to Japan instead of moving to a rural area in Canada? Did you switch to becoming a Japanese citizen? (I had to give up my Japanese citizenship 5 years ago, unfortunately)
Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts. Indeed, so much of the initial investments necessary for becoming more self-sufficient can cost a lot. Not only money but time too.
The cost of living is definitely significantly cheaper than Canada, but the wages are far lower too. But I moved since I wanted to start my own business!
Yes, country living can be romanticised, but I think most places can be. And if you're romanticising about your own country home I think that means you're totally in love ❤️
I live in the countryside in Gunma prefecture and I love it. I think I'd be claustrophobic if I was living in the city! I love the little village we live in, even though it feels like a retirement village! I love learning traditional handicrafts, Japanese cooking and fermentations from the obaachans. I feel they are holding such a wealth of knowledge, and I'm so grateful to glean some of it.
The trade-off is that my children have very small friendship circles, unfortunately, however they don't complain about it.
Thank you again for the kind comment! I also couldn't bear living in the city, especially in Tokyo. You equally must have so much knowledge accumulated from your time in your village. Looking forward to reading more of your stories from rural Japan as well!
Was also going to mention, we celebrated Setsubun much the same was as you. Don't want to waste perfectly good soy beans! My son even cut a huge mouth in the oni mask for us to try and throw the beans into the wearer's mouth 😂
You're welcome to come Behind Shoji Doors anytime to read my Japanese stories 😊
And reading more of your posts, which are so v cool; and link to my childhood.
A share story for later if you wish,
But, trying to guess your lovely dog in the truck, sort of a bit out of focus. So couldn't tell type or breed.
Am nudging 70 and apart from one period when I had to travel a lot in my 30's have always had a dog till my last a venerable Border Collie caiied Eejay, passed away a few yrs ago,
Our first dog was born in my birth year and a pretty cool character and lived well to age of 16. Used to walk me and my sister to school. Another story.
Will read more and have a look at where you are, if that is OK ?
Curious to hear more and glad they bring up some memories and nostalgia.
Sorry to hear your dog passed away, but sounds like Eejay lived a long and full life! My dog sadly passed away one year ago; she was a 'kai-ken' or Kai breed. It's a native breed to Japan. I also had an 'akita-ken'.
I'm based in Shikoku Island, in a village called Kamikatsu!
My family is working towards a life in rural Japan. Reading this from you was just a beautiful snapshot of the life were hoping for, and what were unable to achieve here. Thank you for sharing.
I shifted two years ago to a countryside of India after years of being in one of the busiest cities. And can relate to all the things mentioned here by Kana.
It's an intentional choice to move away to a more conscious, healthy life but also let go of the conveniences of urban cities.
I still feel drawn towards those conveniences of food delivery, etc but the lack of quick commerce options has also made me mindful of my choices and improved my buying decisions. :)
The contrast must have been so big at first. Oh yes, so many evenings I wish I could order pizza or other takeout. I definitely miss that convenience too! I feel overall healthier and grateful for my limited choices. Since I’ve moved, I’ve cooked so much for myself and I’m proud of that! Thank you for sharing your thoughts :)
Thank you for this insight! I recently moved to Madeira (Portugal island) from London and everybody is convinced I did it to escape. Beautifully written. I follow you with passion! Your newsletters are a warm embrace to me 🫂💚
I really enjoyed this post. We live in a small countryside village in Italy, after intentionally moving from bigger (very crowded/touristy) Florence for similar reasons and this really resonates, especially about the multigenerational community -- it is one of the reasons I love living here and bringing my children up here. I think it's so important to have a more diverse community, my children can learn so much being surrounded by elders too.
Emiko, thank you so much! I didn’t even think about the multigenerational community before moving to the countryside, but it’s been such a gift. The amount of love and free food I receive from ‘obachans’ haha. I can only imagine it’s such a rich way for your children to grow up.
Even people in their 50s like my wife and I chose to move from Tokyo to the countryside of Yamanashi and reform a 100 year old kominka and start a small English school for local elementary school students and an Airbnb that caters to those wanting to go off the beaten path. It’s quite a beautiful life that has been supported by such a kind and giving farming community.
Thank you so much for sharing that, Allen! It sounds like a beautiful investment of your time and energy for the community. I agree that this life is so enriching because of the support we get from the community.
I didn’t mean to overlook people in their 50s—it seems the articles I read focused on younger individuals who typically wouldn’t leave urban areas at that stage of life. But truly, any age is a great age for making a move like that!
Thanks for your reply. No worries in overlooking us older folk. I agree it would be nice to have younger people like yourself taking the risk and moving out of the city. I teach university three days a week and commute back and forth. I am grateful to be living where I am now. People don’t realize the beauty and simplicity of countryside living.
One of the most wonderful, unexpected things, I experience living in the countryside is the intergenerational nature of the community. In a city, it's most comfortable to be with people the same age, but being out here makes it necessary and meaningful to interact with people of different ages.
Agree it’s not an escape but it’s working out what matters most, the trade offs that make it worth it and quality of life
I am currently in the middle of nowhere in the French countryside. I didn’t plan to be here but faced with the housing crisis in the uk it was easier.
It’ll be the longest I’ve spent in a rural area ever though that’s naturally where I gravitate towards
It’s been interesting- the peacefulness astounds me every day. I only spend money once a week at the supermarket which I normally avoid feels more like an expedition. I’ve been walking a lot. I have chronic fatigue and it hasn’t disappeared but I don’t feel frazzled here which happens so easily in the city or more generally in England
It’s very much a transition period but definitely a useful pause to slow down and assess what really matters
I grew up in rural Wisconsin and now live in Shenzhen so I get the comparison. I would like to see China develop a similar push to smaller cities and more rural settings, and I think we're beginning to see the start of that.
I’ve lived rurally in Scotland for 8 years and prior to that I lived on a small Scottish island for 2 years. I have three small children so the thing I find most difficult is having to drive everywhere. I love living in the countryside but I do miss just being able to walk to a shop, cafe or museum rather than having to get everyone into a car before going somewhere.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts about the tradeoffs., Kana. I live in Tokyo’s city center — within walking distance of Shinjuku Station (the world’s busiest train station) — and have been looking for a place in the countryside of Tokyo’s mountainous hinterlands for many years.
But the tradeoffs may be too large for me. On my site and Substack Old Photos of Japan I write about daily life in Old Japan, which requires countless hours of research at libraries and archives. I must stay within a certain distance from central Tokyo to accommodate this. Enlarging my collection of vintage images of Japan also requires a city environment.
Additionally, I wrestle with health issues that require frequent hospital visits and doctors with specialist knowledge. Last August I was taken to hospital by ambulance twice within a single week. The second time I could barely breathe. Waiting for the ambulance for longer than I did and then traveling for an hour would have been sheer torture.
Now I live within walking distance of several major hospitals. I doubt living far away from them is realistic.
And I live by myself, which increases the risk of living in the countryside. The additional burden of taking care of an ’estate’, no matter how small, and the community requirements of the Japanese countryside, would likely be too much for a single person with my health limitations and the many hours I need for researching my articles and books.
The more I consider my particular situation and the extreme tradeoffs this requires, the more I realize that perhaps moving to the countryside — no matter how much I want to — is perhaps not a choice available to me.
Which makes reading about your experiences in the countryside a true joy, Kana. Such is the wonder of reading — one gets to be exposed a little to experiences that are otherwise unattainable.
Thank you so much for your thoughtful comment! I just read your beautifully detailed and archived post about Onsen (I think it might have been an older post, but the algorithm brought it up!), and it was such a joy to read.
I completely agree that the nature of our work and responsibilities plays a huge role in determining where we need to be and the access we require. While there is a heli-service for medical emergencies here, and a clinic (not a hospital) just 15–20 minutes away, that distance can feel much too far in truly serious situations.
Exchanging these perspectives and trade-offs through each other’s writing feels so meaningful. I also make city trips to Kansai often (since it’s much closer to Shikoku)—so I can imagine the reverse (trips to the countryside) is the same for you!
Thank you for your kind words about my article on onsen, Kana.
It is indeed an older article. But my articles are generally timeless 'evergreens', so I am deeply grateful for the Substack algorithm bringing up older posts.
Yes, there is no single recipe for living a life. Each of us has to figure it out individually. So, being able to read about how other people live their lives is very interesting and helpful. No matter of one's age.
Hello there from a recent subscriber!
I’ve had similar thoughts to this bubbling up to the surface for me, too. Lately, I’ve been dreaming about returning to Nagasaki to fulfill a decade-long dream of living in the slopes (a taste of which I had as a university student when I lived in an apartment behind Suwa Shrine. No car access and no shower. We had to use plastic buckets for our baths).
I loved the little inconveniences of living in Nagasaki, despite it being a city. Carrying my groceries up the hill every day in the peak summer months was a rite of passage. I think your concerns about how you’ll feel when you get older are valid, but I can’t help but think of the women in their eighties with their white hair who would pass me by on the hill, moving at lightning speed because they’d been living in the slopes as for decades while I was catching my breath. Having a sound mind and staying healthy truly is a blessing.
On the flip side, you’ve just made me realize just how convenient my life is here in Miyazaki. I live in a high-rise apartment near the city center and everything truly is just one click away. All my favorite restaurants are less than 10 minutes walk away and it’s flat where I live. Thank you for giving me some things to think about, Kana. It’s good to check in and see if I’m over romanticizing things sometimes!
Thank you for reading and leaving your thoughts!
I like the line you wrote: "I loved the little inconveniences of living in Nagasaki, despite it being a city." The word "little inconveniences" feels like a perfect description for what you experienced in Nagasaki.
It's true what you say about women in their 80s, the elderly here are so fit and strong. That comes from being born and raised here and cultivating that kind of strength.
It's good that you have both experiences to give you a different perspective!
"How do I think about these tradeoffs with ageing?"
I wouldn't worry about it too much Kana.
I left NYC for Alaska in '64. Admittedly I'm only 30 minutes away from a hospital (As you know, we drive faster here than you folks on Shikoku Island, grin.) rather than a hour. None the less at 86 I'm still quite comfortable on my own property far from the crowds.
Thank you, Jim! NYC to Alaska... I can't think of two more different places in the US!
And I think you make a point that health is much more than access to a hospital.
I will say, Shikoku is known for having some fast (*cough* wild) drivers. Since there is not a well-developed train network like the rest of Japan and it's a very mountainous terrain, most people rely on cars. I'm not sure we're as fast as you/Alaskan drivers, but we're faster than the rest of Japan haha.
Delighted to come across your article/profile. I just moved to the lower Alps in South France. It’s the best thing I’ve ever done for myself. As a musician, I had always lived in the biggest cities in the US and Europe, but I’m just a country boy at heart, and I finally had to accept that city life was making me deeply unhappy.
Anyway, so much of what you’re writing resonates. Keep it up, I will be checking in :)
Thank you so much for sharing that! It's wonderful that we can share similar feelings even though we're in completely different parts of the world. Hope you settle in well into your new home :)
Excellent article Kana. At 61, I’ve become more and more open to living in a rural area. The thought of being closer to nature along with space for a sizable garden is very appealing.
Thank you so much! Any age is a great age. I recently read your post about "suburban America," which is quite a different phenomenon altogether. Still, I found it thought-provoking to consider the question, "What does livability truly mean?" I think that resonates universally, no matter where you call home.
I live in a rural coastal town in Maine. After living in Tokyo and Austin, TX and then making the change to small town life, I can't imagine going back to the city. One thing I do wonder is if I can ever retire here in the US where cost of living is so high. Homesteading is amazing but it's not cheap either, at least at the start (putting in a generator, buying a trailer, etc) and property taxes. As much as I love Maine, I do think about retiring in rural Japan sometimes for cheap abandoned land, mild climate, and relatively low cost of living. Is that why you moved to Japan instead of moving to a rural area in Canada? Did you switch to becoming a Japanese citizen? (I had to give up my Japanese citizenship 5 years ago, unfortunately)
Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts. Indeed, so much of the initial investments necessary for becoming more self-sufficient can cost a lot. Not only money but time too.
The cost of living is definitely significantly cheaper than Canada, but the wages are far lower too. But I moved since I wanted to start my own business!
Yes, country living can be romanticised, but I think most places can be. And if you're romanticising about your own country home I think that means you're totally in love ❤️
I live in the countryside in Gunma prefecture and I love it. I think I'd be claustrophobic if I was living in the city! I love the little village we live in, even though it feels like a retirement village! I love learning traditional handicrafts, Japanese cooking and fermentations from the obaachans. I feel they are holding such a wealth of knowledge, and I'm so grateful to glean some of it.
The trade-off is that my children have very small friendship circles, unfortunately, however they don't complain about it.
Thank you again for the kind comment! I also couldn't bear living in the city, especially in Tokyo. You equally must have so much knowledge accumulated from your time in your village. Looking forward to reading more of your stories from rural Japan as well!
I hope to accumulate much knowledge!
Was also going to mention, we celebrated Setsubun much the same was as you. Don't want to waste perfectly good soy beans! My son even cut a huge mouth in the oni mask for us to try and throw the beans into the wearer's mouth 😂
You're welcome to come Behind Shoji Doors anytime to read my Japanese stories 😊
Hi Kana (glad I got that right}.
And reading more of your posts, which are so v cool; and link to my childhood.
A share story for later if you wish,
But, trying to guess your lovely dog in the truck, sort of a bit out of focus. So couldn't tell type or breed.
Am nudging 70 and apart from one period when I had to travel a lot in my 30's have always had a dog till my last a venerable Border Collie caiied Eejay, passed away a few yrs ago,
Our first dog was born in my birth year and a pretty cool character and lived well to age of 16. Used to walk me and my sister to school. Another story.
Will read more and have a look at where you are, if that is OK ?
Let me know.
Yes, it's Kana! Its a very common Japanese name!
Curious to hear more and glad they bring up some memories and nostalgia.
Sorry to hear your dog passed away, but sounds like Eejay lived a long and full life! My dog sadly passed away one year ago; she was a 'kai-ken' or Kai breed. It's a native breed to Japan. I also had an 'akita-ken'.
I'm based in Shikoku Island, in a village called Kamikatsu!
My family is working towards a life in rural Japan. Reading this from you was just a beautiful snapshot of the life were hoping for, and what were unable to achieve here. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for sharing that—it’s not without its challenges but I hope you and your family have a chance to experience rural Japan 🌱
I shifted two years ago to a countryside of India after years of being in one of the busiest cities. And can relate to all the things mentioned here by Kana.
It's an intentional choice to move away to a more conscious, healthy life but also let go of the conveniences of urban cities.
I still feel drawn towards those conveniences of food delivery, etc but the lack of quick commerce options has also made me mindful of my choices and improved my buying decisions. :)
The contrast must have been so big at first. Oh yes, so many evenings I wish I could order pizza or other takeout. I definitely miss that convenience too! I feel overall healthier and grateful for my limited choices. Since I’ve moved, I’ve cooked so much for myself and I’m proud of that! Thank you for sharing your thoughts :)
Thank you for this insight! I recently moved to Madeira (Portugal island) from London and everybody is convinced I did it to escape. Beautifully written. I follow you with passion! Your newsletters are a warm embrace to me 🫂💚
London to Portugal! That’s a huge move! I’m sure it’s also nice to have a change in weather :) Thank you so much for your kind comment.
I really enjoyed this post. We live in a small countryside village in Italy, after intentionally moving from bigger (very crowded/touristy) Florence for similar reasons and this really resonates, especially about the multigenerational community -- it is one of the reasons I love living here and bringing my children up here. I think it's so important to have a more diverse community, my children can learn so much being surrounded by elders too.
Emiko, thank you so much! I didn’t even think about the multigenerational community before moving to the countryside, but it’s been such a gift. The amount of love and free food I receive from ‘obachans’ haha. I can only imagine it’s such a rich way for your children to grow up.
Even people in their 50s like my wife and I chose to move from Tokyo to the countryside of Yamanashi and reform a 100 year old kominka and start a small English school for local elementary school students and an Airbnb that caters to those wanting to go off the beaten path. It’s quite a beautiful life that has been supported by such a kind and giving farming community.
Thank you so much for sharing that, Allen! It sounds like a beautiful investment of your time and energy for the community. I agree that this life is so enriching because of the support we get from the community.
I didn’t mean to overlook people in their 50s—it seems the articles I read focused on younger individuals who typically wouldn’t leave urban areas at that stage of life. But truly, any age is a great age for making a move like that!
Thanks for your reply. No worries in overlooking us older folk. I agree it would be nice to have younger people like yourself taking the risk and moving out of the city. I teach university three days a week and commute back and forth. I am grateful to be living where I am now. People don’t realize the beauty and simplicity of countryside living.
One of the most wonderful, unexpected things, I experience living in the countryside is the intergenerational nature of the community. In a city, it's most comfortable to be with people the same age, but being out here makes it necessary and meaningful to interact with people of different ages.
Agree it’s not an escape but it’s working out what matters most, the trade offs that make it worth it and quality of life
I am currently in the middle of nowhere in the French countryside. I didn’t plan to be here but faced with the housing crisis in the uk it was easier.
It’ll be the longest I’ve spent in a rural area ever though that’s naturally where I gravitate towards
It’s been interesting- the peacefulness astounds me every day. I only spend money once a week at the supermarket which I normally avoid feels more like an expedition. I’ve been walking a lot. I have chronic fatigue and it hasn’t disappeared but I don’t feel frazzled here which happens so easily in the city or more generally in England
It’s very much a transition period but definitely a useful pause to slow down and assess what really matters
I grew up in rural Wisconsin and now live in Shenzhen so I get the comparison. I would like to see China develop a similar push to smaller cities and more rural settings, and I think we're beginning to see the start of that.
Beautiful article Kana.
I’ve lived rurally in Scotland for 8 years and prior to that I lived on a small Scottish island for 2 years. I have three small children so the thing I find most difficult is having to drive everywhere. I love living in the countryside but I do miss just being able to walk to a shop, cafe or museum rather than having to get everyone into a car before going somewhere.